Amazing narrow fin of granite (S of Echo Ridge) . Lots of snow on the approach still, but managed in approach shoes. Did the standard approach via cathedral trail and X-countried on the shoulder of Echo where we contoured over to the clump of trees that begins the south-to-north traverse of Matthes. Part 1: Climb one long or two short pitches until the angle mellows out considerably and you gain the ridge. The key to having fun here is knowing when to rope up and when not to which, obviously, depends on your ability and comfort level. attempted unsuccessfully the most famous peak Matthes Crest lies deep in the backcountry. North Carolina had the highest population of Matthes families in 1840. This web page shows only a small excerpt of our Matthes research. We believe good things come from people spending time outside. We promise not to annoy you, but if you wish, you may unsubscribe at any time. Learn more about how to apply the principles of Leave No Trace on your next outdoor adventure. Generally, people do the traverse from South to North. Matthes Crest - (lat/long ~ N37.8237 W119.3972) (alt ~ 10880ft/3318m) . This is the spectacular knife edge on the south slope of Echo Ridge. Amazing narrow fin of granite, above an ocean of granite. Incredible location. We set up for the first few pitches as two teams of two and belayed leaders until out of rope, then we simul-climbed up to the ridge. Skirt on west (right) then south round the west of Echo Peaks to see Mathes Crest. Unique style of route. Alternatively, parties can head towards Cathedral Peak and take a cross-country route, which links up with the the northern end of Matthes Crest. Report Save. Currently 0.00/5; Start of South to North Traverse. usually stopping at the N summit, or the notch betweeen S+N summits. Belayed the first three pitches, and the one pitch up the north summit, but simul-climbed everything else. All you really need to know is if you’re looking for some High Sierra fun before winter, are cool with a long day out, and like to climb, you absolutely must do this route. First view of Matthes Crest in the morning, First belay station on the South-to-North ridge traverse, Intimidating knife ridge with dramatic drop-offs on either side, Me climbing an exposed class 3 section on the crest, Dirk made it to the top of the south summit of Matthes Crest, View of Cathedral Peak from the grassy west shoulder of Echo Peaks, Budd Lake and Coxcomb, another dramatic spire. Following a 4am wake-up and drive from Tahoe, Yosemite’s magical deliverance of beauty welcomed us from our first step into the 2-3 hour (jaw-dropping) approach. All rights reserved. 5 Sep 1999 - by Chris Hahn. The climb moves south to north. It’s about building relationships with the outdoors and each other. Park, just southwest of Tuolumne Meadows, on August 14, 2004. Rich, Paul, Sam, and I traversed Matthes Crest on 30 Sept 2006. Matthes Crest Traverse - 5.7 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5 Route sequence (left to right): 1 ... about 20 ropelengths. This was my one sufferfest this summer that didn’t feel too much like suffering. It's undoubtedly one of the best traverse routes of it's kind in the United States. Climbing. This route is one of a kind, and it features wild movements, breathtaking views, incredible exposure, and excellent rock quality. To reach Matthes Crest, begin at the Cathedral Lakes Trailhead in Tuolumne Meadows. in this area - Cathedral Peak - without technical climbing gear. Matthes Crest is an extremely long knife edge fin that cuts across a spectacular part of Tuolumne. © 2020 Outdoor Project. Approach From the Cathedral Lakes Trailhead, hike to Cathedral Pass. The first known ascent of Matthes Crest was by Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, and Walter Brem on June 16, 1931. This trail will take you up to Echo pass. Adam on the approach to Matthes Crest, Cathedral Peaks, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, California. like a knife-edged fin, situated just 3 miles southeast of Cathedral Peak with almost the same height . In 1840 there were 3 Matthes families living in North Carolina. Variety of interesting moves, unfogettable rock structures, sustained for more than a thousand feet of climbing. Outdoor Project may earn commission on products purchased through our links, which supports the work we do for our readers. 1. share. The approach is 5 miles each way, and there's over half a mile of climbing to do. Approach up the south arête. There are a couple ways for parties to access Matthes Crest from this trail. It can be reached relatively easily from Tuolumne Meadows, but gets much fewer climbers than its more famous neighbor, Cathedral Peak. Tuesday July 3, 2012 9:45pm. North Summit, then descend by 3 rappells. From Cathedral Pass head southeast following the drainage towards Echo Lake. Switch leaders at this point, and continue on to the south summit. Comment: There's no way a "competent" climber can do this in 3-4 hours, even soloing. Matthes Crest (10,900+) First ascent by Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, and Walter Brem on July 26, 1931. Peaks: Matthes Crest (sorted/filed as Matthes) Place: California. Matthes Crest approach/rap. The previous year I had . Excellent climbing. The easiest is to follow the Cathedral Lakes Trail past Upper Cathedral Lake to Cathedral Pass. As the trail starts downward, leave the trail and follow the creek drainage to the left towards Matthes Crest. Part 3: Downclimb to the notch between summits. It’s about nourishment and learning. We enjoyed summit views at about 9:40am and then set off for the Matthes Crest, about 3.5 miles away and over the pass between Tresidder Peak and Columbia Finger. As this is a ridge traverse, it is difficult to give a pitch by pitch description. A linear series rough rock fractals, rising and falling. This was a technical climbing day trip to the northern Cathedral Range area in Yosemite National From Cathedral Pass head southeast following the drainage towards Echo Lake. Solid rap anchors available between the south and north summits. Another 109 words (8 lines of text) covering the years 1400, 1484, 1378, 1408, 1546, 1628, 1577, 1655, 1600, 1660, 1656, 1676, 1751, 1797 and are included under the topic Early Matthes History in all our PDF Extended History products and printed products wherever possible. . A granite knife ridge cutting straight through the sky, this beast of a rock is tucked away in the backcountry of Tuolumne Meadows away from Highway 120 and any main trails. We will attempt to traverse from the south end of the knife edge to its high point - the Climb another pitch, placing gear, back up to the north summit. Aaron climbing the ridge of Matthes Crest, Cathedral Peaks, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, California. It is a serrated fin of alpine granite, cutting the wind, drafting birds above amphitheaters and scree piles. The climbing is easy but very enjoyable and the approach, although relatively long, is very scenic. by hamik. Probably best to Simul or Solo much of the route. The massive granite fin is like no other formation I've seen, and both the scenery and exposure are stunning. Also, there is a very nice meadow (both meadows have streams) on the approach to Matthes Crest after you descend from the Echo Peaks "pass". Matthes Crest - Yosemite National Park. White Rat, White Granite: Matthes Crest under Moonlight. Dozens of short routes have also been done on the sides of the Crest since the … Part 2:  Simul climb until your leader runs out of gear. Surreal Labor Day traversing Matthes Crest. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum. Matthes Crest is a fantastic, mile-long knife-edged fin in Yosemite NP. The snow usually is gone by late June. Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. It is well-worn, but less obvious than the Cathedral Lakes trail, so keep your eyes peeled. Matthes Crest. A word of warning about the Matthes Crest. Doing it North to South would involve more downclimbing. Matthes crest arose as a nunatak in the glacial field which covered Tuolumne during the last ice age. It is most widely known for its traverse, but many other routes exist on both sides. From the notch it's possible to down climb to a set of anchors for a single rap on a 70m rope. prehistoric glaciers. Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. We (Chris Hahn and Rick Tietz) climbed the Matthes Crest as a day hike/climb early in September, 1999. Follow the cairns down over the pass and over slabs to the far south side of the crest. 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